#Moscatello of Taggia: after centuries the ancient vine used to produce the #wine so loved by Kings and Popes have been found

“Wine is brought to Rome from different provinces, by sea and by land, but the best comes from the Riviera of Genoa, and in particular from a villa named Taglia… it’s golden, neither smoky or too sweet, but amabile,” wrote in his Treatise on wine Sante Lacerio, official bottler (sommelier) to Pope Paul III Farnese, referring to Moscatello.

The period is the half of 1500, when Taggia used to be called Taglia. Moscatello was produced in the area between Santo Stefano and Bussana, and it was loved not only by the Pope, but also by Kings and nobles all around Europe.

The cultivation of the Muscat of Taggia (or Moscatello) then began to decrease until it completely disappeared to make way to a cultivation of olives that quickly became the new gastronomic product of excellence” the Oliva Taggiasca.

The new business trend strongly favouring the cultivation of olives over wine inevitably led to Liguria losing all its prestige as an important international wine area.

Up to the nineteenth century the Muscat of Taggia was described as “the most aromatic grape known with regards to the production of dessert wines.” Then its decline and extinction, until some strains of the ancient vine have recently been found in the Upper Argentina Valley.

Wine producer Eros Mammoliti has selected some healthy strains, and has carried out tests on them to monitor their health conditions and to prevent the spread of any disease to other vineyards. After that, he got new roots and planted them.

Helped by the University of Turin and the Region of Liguria, Mammoliti has now started to produce the Moscatello of Taggia again, after centuries of oblivion.

The wine has already been granted the DOC - Controlled Designation of Origin -label.

Even though only a few thousands litres per year of Moscatello are currently produced and it is still considered a “niche wine”, this represents an invaluable discovery for the gastronomic tradition of the Italian Riviera which, according to many, will help Wester Liguria in the process of recovery from the global economic crisis.